Athlete Profile

Eric Cavazos-Smith

Athlete Metrics:

2023: weight 200lbs, height 6.1, Ape Index (W70"xH73") 0.959

Indoor:
Bouldering:

Comfort Zone Grade: V4-V6, Project Grade: V7, Highest Grade Completed: V7

Lead Climbing:

Comfort Zone Grade: 5.11+ - 5.12+, Project Grade: 5:13a, Highest Grade Completed: 5.12c

Outdoor:
Notable Climbs & Accents Completed:

Mt. Hood, OR (11,249ft.): Old Chute, AI-2: (2024)
Mt. Hubris (AKA “The Ogre”, 5400 ft., Castle Crags State Park, CA): (Cosmic Wall, T-5.6-R, 950ft.): Trad-Solo/Free Solo (2024):

NOTES: This climb was somewhat of a unique and evolutionary experience. To access the crags at Castle Crags State Park, you must first hike 3 miles up to the base of the crags with all essential gear. This experience alone can be somewhat exhausting depending on weight and how easily the bushwaking goes. I was prepared for light trad climbing but never placed a single cam or nut on the route. There are quite a few “natural” pitch indicators along the way, trees, and comfortable ledges. Officially the climb is 6 pitches, but with a 70m rope and some simul-climbing techniques, you can make much lighter work of the climb. The only place on the route I used protection was to traverse to the anchors at the top of pitch 2. I placed a sling around a horn and made the traverse to the anchors. I set up my quad and stored my bag for pitches 3 and 4. After recovering my bag from pitch 2 and judging up with a NANO TRAXION to pitch 4, I made my way to the summit, with my bag, like I had started. The entire time, I had been dragging the rope up, which is needed for the two repel stations on the other side of the summit. This was an interesting hybrid trad, free solo climbing experience.

Castle Dome (Castle Crags State Park, CA): Class IV
Half Dome (8,839ft.): (Snake Dike, T-5.7-R):

  • Trad, Lead Party of 3

  • Free Solo (2024)


Tenaya Peak (10,306ft.): Mountaineers Route, Northwest Buttress (T-5.5):

  • (Trad-Solo, 2022),

  • August 2023 (Trad, Party of 2)

Pywiack Dome: Onsight, Unknown Route (Trad-Solo)

Sunnyside Bench Regular Route (5.5): (Trad-Solo, 2023)

Munginella (T-5.6): Trad, Lead (2023)

Climbing Goals in 2024:

Sport climb a 5.13a route at either Smith Rock or Owens River Gorge.